We departed Chicago on a Saturday and met Trace veteran Tom Grose and his lovely spouse Jill at their winter Nashville abode. That evening we had the pleasure of seeing the Blackhawks beat the Predators, as well as sampling the wares of a couple of local microbreweries on our way to the game. To our delight, a good 40% of the fans at the game appeared to be wearing Hawks red.
We spent Sunday in Nashville riding locally and sampling the wares of several of the local food trucks before we set out on the Trace the following day. We chose to avoid the hilliest part just outside of Nashville and spent the first day driving to Florence, Alabama, where we spent the first night. On that portion to the Trace is the grave of Meriwether Lewis of Lewis and Clark fame, who died or was murdered under mysterious circumstances at a local tavern along the Trace.
Crossing the Tennessee Tombigbee Canal |
Wildflowers along the Trace |
Elvis Presley birthplace, Tupelo |
Tornado Damage |
Rain finally came on Thursday but was over by mid morning, so we were able to get in a full day of riding. This day was my turn to drive the sag van, so my riding this day was limited. We stopped at an information center outside of Kosciusko, Ms. Named after the Revolutionary War hero, the town is also the birthplace and childhood home of Oprah Winfrey. We spent the night in Canton, MS.
Friday saw us passing through the Jackson area. Jackson is the state capital and has a population of around half a million. In this area, the Trace sees very heavy commuter traffic. We did have a couple of alternatives. Starting just north of Jackson, we were able to ride on a parallel urban bike path that provided a detour around the most congested part of the Trace. At the time we were there, nine miles of the Trace were closed to automotive traffic but still open to bicycles. Our overnight stay was in Vicksburg.
We spent the early morning touring the site of the Vicksburg battlefield, which commemorates the Union victory on July 4, 1863. Along with the Battle of Gettysburg, which ended the day before, Vicksburg marked the turning point of the Civil War. We then returned to the Trace to ride the final 65 miles to the terminus at Natchez.
Antebellum Mansion, Natchez |
I'd like to add a few observations about the Trace in general and as a cycling destination in particular. The parkway is a 444 mile two lane road with no shoulders. There are very few crossroads. Almost all intersections are in the form of on and off ramps. Commercial traffic is banned, however, numerous huge RVs (many towing an additional vehicle) approach semi-trailers in size. Except near the few large cities on the route, traffic volume is very low and makes for an excellent cycling environment.
Group along the Trace |
We were particularly lucky on this trip to enjoy beautiful weather with ideal riding temperatures. We had the bonus of a profusion of wild flowers along the length of the ride. Tom, a veteran of many previous Trace trips, assured us that such is not always the case. Weather in April can be very chancy. Before long, temperatures begin to get brutally hot. Another nice time to travel might be late fall with color changes.
We had a great time and would consider a return trip, as well as highly recommend the Trace as a cycling destination.
- Joe Dickstein
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